Monday, May 28, 2018

Rainbow Summer Rolls

My first taste of Vietnamese food was at the mall this February.  I got a couple of these rolls when everyone else wanted lunch and I wasn't very hungry.  The only reason I had shied away from this cuisine in the past was the risk of chilis.  That day, I was on two different antihistamines and decided to take the leap.  They were very good, so when I came across a recipe I pounced on it.

This particular version comes from What's Gaby Cooking: Everyday California Food by Gaby Dalkin, adapted by the Los Angeles Times.  (Side note, I'm not sure why a California cookbook calls green onions "scallions".  That's the East Coast term for them.  I'm restoring the local name here.)

Anybody want a radish?
The ingredient list is daunting, but not impossible, and I left off the avocados as one layer too many and probably only included as part of a "California" cookbook.  The ingredients also are not cheap, even though I scraped together all the herbs from the garden to save $8.  I kind of broke the dinner budget on this one, then picked up some chicken to have alongside the rolls when I realized how low in protein they are.  Unless you're Asian, you probably don't have half of these ingredients on hand.  I skipped the chili garlic sauce (allergy) and subbed adding sesame seeds to regular oil.  I did save a few cents by pulling the carrot out of the garden. And I subbed in radishes instead of a pepper - because I grew a boatload of radishes.

Gaby has you make all the fillings separate and layer them in.  That's fine if you don't have to wash the half-dozen bowls such a mise en place would create.  To prep the filling before, or to keep it in storage for leftovers, it's easier to toss everything in a single bowl and stir it around.  The rice noodles even toss in well.  You won't get the stained-glass artistry that you would by composing one element at a time, but it tastes the same.

I did double the dipping sauce recipe when I made it, so I could use it to marinate the chicken.  Mm, hoisin peanut chicken thighs...

Dipping Sauce
1/2 C hoisin sauce
2 Tb smooth peanut butter
*1 tsp rice vinegar
*2 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp chili garlic sauce
1/2 tsp toasted sesame oil

1.  Whisk together all ingredients.  Taste and add soy or vinegar to taste and for consistency.  If making ahead, refrigerate.  Otherwise, set aside at room temperature for up to 2 hours.  Makes scant 1/2 C of sauce.

Summer Rolls
12 rice paper wrappers
1 C dry vermicelli rice noodles, cooked to package directions
2 Persian cucumbers, julienned
*1 large carrot, peeled and julienned
1 red bell pepper, julienned
1 mango, pitted, peeled, and finely diced
3 green onions, white and light green parts, julienned
*1/2 C fresh mint leaves
*1/2 C fresh basil leaves
1/2 C fresh cilantro leaves
1 head butter lettuce

1.  Decide if you're going to roll this as a tossed salad or in artful layers.  For the former, toss together  all the herbs and veggies except for the lettuce.  Stir in cooked rice noodles if desired.  For the latter, start making piles.
2.  In a 9" or 10" cake pan, place one sheet of rice paper.  Pour hot water over it and let it sit until softened, about 30 seconds.  If your work surface is big enough, soften several a time so you can set up an assembly line.  I had to do one at a time because I picked a small cutting board.  I also should have picked one that wasn't white.
3.  Lay softened circles on a work surface.  You're going to put all the fillings in the bottom 1/3 of the circle, staying away from the sides.  For the arty version, arrange bottom layer of veggies in a way that will create a design through the translucent material.  Maybe a few herb leaves and some veggies to make a flower, or just an attractive arrangement.  Top with rice noodles and lettuce.  If you tossed everything together, it doesn't matter what order you do it in.

4.  To roll, turn up the top 1/3 with the fillings in it.  Fold in the sides, then continue to roll until you reach the end, like a burrito.  Place seam-side down on a plate and cover with a damp towel until finished.  Move on to the next.
5.  Once all the filling is used, you can plate the rolls and serve with the dish of sauce.

Makes about 12

Difficulty rating :)

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